Edinburgh: My Best Acquaintance

In Edinburgh, there are beautiful sights everywhere. The old castles, the vast coasts, the ghostly dungeons, the museums full of treasures, and the unique festivals reminded me of the good past.

Release time : 2016-11-09 15:36:04

source : Lonely Planet

After ten years, I’ve returned to Edinburgh, the second hometown I’ve missed so much. In Edinburgh, there are beautiful sights everywhere. The old castles, the vast coasts, the ghostly dungeons, the museums full of treasures, and the unique festivals reminded me of the good past. I cherished the moment and enjoyed the peace.

The castle was there before the city was established. That is why residents feel relaxed when they see the castle.

Picking up the memories after 10 years

The train left from London and zipped through the countryside to the north. The sights outside of the window looked brighter and brighter. As I saw the blue sea, I realized that Edinburgh was not far away. As I stepped out of the platform, I saw the 1500 year old castle. My heart was touched like it was my first time seeing it.

Ten years ago, when I was a student, I lived in Edinburgh for two years. In West with the Night, Beryl Markham says, “When you leave a place you lived and loved, you should forget it as soon as possible.” When you return to such a place, you should probably do the opposite. So, when I took the train to Edinburgh, I tried to recall everything. I walked around the place where I used to live and looked for new beauty. The capital of Scotland welcomed me in its traditional way with its beauty.

Walk along the Royal Street and appreciate the beauty of the Old City

The Royal Street is the major street in the Old City of Edinburgh. Walk from the middle of the street along a sideway for about five minutes and you can reach the place where I used to live when I studied in Edinburgh. I remember my roommate was from Skye of Scotland and he brought a dog named Cuilean from his hometown. In their local language, Cuilean just means dog. I used to walk the dog on Royal Street.

In the morning, I went to Holyrood Palace, where Queen Mary of Scotland used to live. It was said that she saw her second husband killed her lover in this palace. Holyrood

Palace is now the summer palace of Queen Elizabeth II, descendant of Queen Elizabeth I, who prisoned Queen Mary of Scotland for 18 years then killed her at last. Local residents like to walk on the greenbelt in the morning sunshine. In the afternoon, I walked to the west and climbed up to the castle. I think many residents have not been to the castle because the ticket price is a little expensive. On November 30th every year, in memory of St. Andrews, the Protector of Scotland, the castle will be open for free and you can see people from all around the world. Local people love this castle deeply because the castle came before the city. I was influenced too and I felt relieved every time I saw the castle. After so many years, at night, I stayed at the square of the castle and watched the lights and houses below, as well as the North Sea not far away. The wind was a little cold and made me miss the lovely dog Cuilean.

In daytime, there are numerous tourists on the Royal Street. However, there are many alleys nearby with windows that are always closed; the local people call it Close. I like AnchorClose most with steep steps and dim gas lamps, like the scene of a painting. As night comes, the alleys become ghostly due to the fog.

Will you be haunted in this city?

Some snoop once made a haunted index for old cities in Europe and Edinburgh was ranked at the very top. The Royal Street is the much haunted area. More than 300 women accused as the witch were burned at the square of the castle and many passersby said they were haunted nearly to death. Mercat Cross near St Giles Cathedral used to be the place where prisoners were executed. It was said that many ghosts with no head looked for the head.

Cow Gate and South Bridge were also much haunted. Cow Gate used to be an old street in the Middle Ages and cows were rushed to the market from the street. South Bridge was built in 1785, situated across from Cow Gate and you can’t tell it is a bridge now. As the

bridge arose, the cellar of Cow Gate became darker and damper. It was originally used for storage then later abandoned. In early 19th century, many poor people and criminals stayed there as there was no law. At that time, medical science and anatomy developed rapidly in Scotland and some serial killer killed the refugees and sold the bodies to doctors who studied anatomy. This law case created a great uproar. The English word burking (meaning killing in secret) just originates from the family name of the killer. Since then, there were stories about haunting in the cellar again and again.

The first time I walked through South Bridge, I went to attend the reception meeting for new students. Edinburgh University was founded in 1583 with no walls and many colleges were scattered in the old city. After the meeting, I was drunk and I walked back to Cow Gate. It was like walking in the deep valley. After that, I went past Cow Gate, but was never haunted. There are many interesting tour groups that will set out on a dark night. The guide, dressed in a long robe with candles in the hand would lead the group. They go through a small alley to the cellar. It is said that they will probably be haunted. If you are timid and afraid to do so, you can visit the dark bars under South Bridge, like the famous live music bar, Bannermans. The stage is set in the deep end of the cellar. On Sundays, you can try karaoke here.

The hills, greenbelts, open fields and shores bring vastness and courage to the city.

During the first winter in Edinburgh, I stayed up late and studied for many tests. For a while, I felt like I became the ghost. The day starts at 10 a.m. and at 3 p.m. the sun started to set. The sunlight time is short, but it is not very cold. The city has an oceanic climate and the grass stays green. Anyway, it is a warm city in the north. Still, many people are impressed by the desolate winter of Edinburgh. In the British teleplay North & South, the daughter of a priest

from the south meets a factory owner from cold north. Their characters and values are as different as south from north. The north was the view in Edinburgh. The heroine often walks across a low slope and overlooks the cold city. If you come to Edinburgh during winter, remember to visit Calton Hill and experience the deep soul of the city in different angles.

I visited Edinburgh in April and there were daffodils everywhere at that time. If you visit the city in May or June, there will be more flowers in Edinburgh. Local residents who had stayed inside the house for too long flooded to the park at the foot of the castle and enjoyed sunshine. It was also a good time to drink coffee. In the afternoon, the castle in golden sunshine is very beautiful and you may want to take a picture there. Walk along Princes Street to the east and you will see Scott Monument with a Gothic rooftop. This is also a good place to overlook the whole city.

Walk to the seaside and enjoy the nature here

Walk past Prince Street and you will reach the New City of Edinburgh. The Old City is so famous that many people do not know that the New City is also world cultural heritage. The New City is neat, elegant and spectacular. It is probably the first city in Europe that is built on the idea of modern city planning. The New City is about 200 years old and it is the place where local residents live, work and rest. The Old City belongs to students and tourists.

The whole city is not very large and you can walk through the whole city. I took bus from Prince Street and minutes later I reached Dean Village. A street over, there was a small village as beautiful as the movie. I walked along the stone road and soon heard running water. That meant I have reached Leith Walkway. I decided to walk from Water of Leith Walkway to the seaside this time. The walking distance was about 20 km.

Edinburgh is a city built on a mountain and the castle is situated on an inactive volcano. I did not expect that

there would be an interesting river valley. There were runners and dogs. Someone was fishing and there were already two trouts in the bucket. I passed the garden of the church and I saw camellia. After the graveyard, I reached an abandoned train platform with wild flowers growing on the rail tracks. Suddenly, a wild swan flew over from the water. Two hours later, I reached Leith District, where the Leith River met the sea.

The Scottish cuisine is not bad.

Visit museums on a rainy day

It is always rainy on the British Islands and it is also windy in Edinburgh. You should bring a water-proof jacket when you visit Edinburgh.

After two sunny days, rain poured and I decided to visit museums. As the culture and art center of Scotland, Edinburgh is not short of museums. I remember I saw the authentic works of Raphael, Rubens and Cezanne in Scottish National Gallery for the first time many years ago. I open up the map App and realized National Museum of Scotland is not far away. Like most museums in Edinburgh, this one was free. There were some unique treasures there, like the specimen of Dolly the first cloned sheep, the harp of Queen Mary and clothes Vivienne Westwood designed after she got inspiration from Scottish decorative designs.

The Writer’s Museum on the Royal Street is not far from National Museum of Scotland. This stone house built in 1622 is well-preserved. It used to be the residence of a baron. This museum was built to commemorate the three giants of Scottish literature: Robert Burns, Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson. You may feel strange about Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson, but you must know a little about Robert Burns. Everyone can sing Auld Lang Syne and that is just his product. Museum of Childhood is another interesting museum on the Royal Street, but if you have seen movies like Child’s Play, you may want to avoid it.

Enjoy the delicious food in Scotland

When I was a poor student, I never went to a good

restaurant, but I went to the bar sometimes. It was the only entertainment option for the young people at night. In a traditional Scottish bar in Grass Market, a schoolmate ordered something black and told me it was the most famous food in Scotland, named Haggis. I tried it and never wanted to eat it again.

Because of this, I did not like Scottish cuisine for many years. However, during this visit to Edinburgh I realized I was wrong. I ignored that Scotland lied beside the sea. The North Atlantic Drift and Arctic Blast meet here and there is an abundance of seafood. That is the major food in the restaurant. Aside from that, there is the famous Angus Cattle on Highlands Ranch. In The Mussel and Steak Bar in Grass Market, I ordered Scottish cuisine with confidence. I ordered blue mussel cooked with white wine and a rare Highlands beef steak. The food was cheap and delicious.

As I prepared in advance and reserved online, I even got a chance to eat at a one Michelin Star restaurant. I ate a full meal and that cost me just 31 pounds. On workdays, all high-class restaurants provide an affordable lunch menu.

Castle Terrace had the same name as the street and its decoration was not to impressive, but I liked the details here. For example, the basket full of bread was made of Scottish woolen. The lunch here contained three courses and they were all prepared with Scottish ingredients. The menu changed with the different seasons and there was a dish called seared wing of skate when I visited. It was a kind of ray with wings from Shetland Islands of Scotland. As I had my dessert, I saw the people at the next table were eating Haggis and I was astonished. I did not expect that food in a Michelin Star restaurant.

The Scottish make their own money, hang their own flag, founded their own parliament and even celebrate their own festivals.

Experience the Scottish style at the market below the castle

The Daily Telegraph of Britain once elected the best farmer markets in

the world. Union Square in New York, Marylebone in London, and the one in Edinburgh were all listed. I have been to the other three markets and I think the one in Edinburgh is the best one. On the upcoming Saturday, I went to the market. On the road, I saw many stalls selling flowers and fruits and it was like a festival was coming. In the market, there were vegetables, cheese, honey, fresh bread, cakes, fruit juice, and fish and chips. They were cheap and delicious. Many people bought the food and packed for a picnic on the greenbelt nearby.

After lunch, you can get some shopping done on Prince Street. Jenners is a good place to go if you are not sure what to buy. This is the first private-run department store in the world and it was opened in 1838, even earlier than Harrods Store in London. It had gorgeous walnut winding corridor and sculptures in the shape of lions on the handrail. The whole building is loaded with cultural relics and the inside structure is protected well. If you want something unique or interesting, I’ll recommend Victoria Street as it never disappoints. It is said that J.K. Rowling got inspiration from this street and created Diagon Alley in Harry Potter. Do not miss Armstrongs Vintage at the end of the street if you like gorgeous vintage styleis your cup of tea.

Celebrate local festivals

If you use cash to buy products, you may find the change you get is a little different. That is the money issued by Scotland and it is a little different from the pound. The money may not be accepted in other countries of the world. The proud Scotsmen hang their own flag, found their own parliament, and celebrate their own festivals.

The most important festival in Edinburgh is Hogmanay. When the clock bells are struck, fireworks are shot into the sky and hundreds of thousands of people will sing Auld Lang Syne, which means the good old time. As the song is over, everybody delivers wishes to each other, no matter whether they are family

, friends, or strangers.

Samhuinn is a unique festival in Edinburgh. In the calendar of old Celts, November 1st is the beginning of a new year. There will be grand bonfire parade on the eve of the Celtic New Year. Summer ends and winter as well as the long dark night will come. I once experienced Samhain and it was like a dream. The parade started from the square of the castle and people waited with caution along the Royal Street. Suddenly, the parade team in blue color emerged from the dark. The King of Summer was pushed with fruits in his hands, and they passed us one by one. Then, a loud sound came and the Devil symbolizing winter appeared and began to dance. The team assembled at the square in front of Scottish National Gallery at last. The King of Winter beat the King of Summer at last and a new year started.

Anyway, what I miss most is Edinburgh Festival. In August, there are about 100 shows every day. People watch one show, then rush to another. At that time, I worked on my thesis and I had no time to watch shows until the last day of the Festival. There was Flamenco Dance in a lecture room and there were only two performers. It was the first time that I watched Flamenco Dance and I was shocked. The whole audience was attracted and focused. As the show was over, I knew this was a gift to me and it will be a beautiful memory.

Nine facts that might attract you in Edinburgh

The caste emerges before the city. Edinburgh Castle is one of the most expensive and popular sights in Scotland now. If you do not have much time, here are the places you must visit: Argyle Battery, One O’Clock Gun, Great Hall, and Honours of Scotland.

Scott Monument was built in memory of Sir Scott Walter, a novelist who died in 1832. The life of Sir Scott Walter is exhibited inside the building and the sculptures outside the building are figures of his novels. Climb over the 287 steps to the top, and you can see the beauty of the city.

Mercat Tour operates the walking

travel projects in the haunted area. The guide may bring you to a place few people know about and explore mysterious stories. The tour usually takes 45 minutes to 2 hours.

The Leith River is the major river that runs through Edinburgh. It winds about 39 km to the sea. Walk along the river and you can see luxuriant trees and enjoy the beautiful sight. You can walk along Leith River and then take the bus back to the city.

Waterstone is the biggest chained bookstore in Britain. Enjoy thearoma of coffee and books; you can feel the gentle qualities of the staff and customers.

Holyrood Palace is the living place of the royal family of Britain and it is famous for Queen Mary of Scotland who used to live here. If the royal family of Britain stays here, the palace will be closed to the public. In the Great Gallery of the palace, there are 89 paintings of kings of Scotland. The Bed Chamber of Queen Mary is also very famous.

There are many important art collections from Europe in the Scottish National Gallery, ranging from Renaissance to Post-Impressionism. There are works of world-famous artists like Leonardo da Vinci, Rubens, Monnai, Gauguin, Cezanne and so on.

Bannerman’sBar in downtown is located in a very old building and there will be live performance every Saturday night. The bands and singer are likely to be stars in the future. You can drink whisky and bottled beer here. The staffs here are good at telling ghost stories. You can chat with them when you drink whisky here.

The outside wall of National Museum of Scotland is very outstanding. One of the buildings is of modern style and the other is of Victorian style. This museum records history of Scotland from ancient time to the last decade of the 20th century. In the building of Victorian style, there are also works from ancient Egypt, China and Japan, ranging from natural history, archaeology, science and industrial technologies.

Edinburgh in struggle

Changes of the name of the city

In the 7th

century, the district of Castle Rock was called Dun Eidden, meaning the castle on the mountain slope. In 638, Dun Eidden was attacked and occupied by Northumbria in the northeast of England. Then, the name of the city was change to Edinburgh.

Super Metropolitan

Edinburgh was originally set up as a fortress. It started to expand from the 12th century. When David I of Scotland was in power, many monasteries were constructed and the Old City was formed.

Scotland Parliament House

In 1997, a referendum took place in Scotland for more rights. In July 1997, the first meeting of Scotland Parliament House was held and Edinburgh entered a new era. Scotland Parliament House is at the end of the Royal Street. In 2007, Scottish National Party, that sought independence, won the vote in Scotland Parliament House and took power for the first time.

Queen Mary of Scotland

Six days after her birth, she was made the Queen of Scotland. During the war and compromise, she was betrothed to the princess of France and sent there. In France, she became a Catholic and a smart queen. After the death of her husband, the queen was faced with wars in Scotland. She returned to Scotland to take control but failed. Elizabeth I, her mortal enemy, imprisoned her for as long as 18 years. At the end, Queen Mary of Scotland was put to guillotine. Before she died, she said, “In my end is my beginning.” Like a prophecy, her son became King James I of England at last. The Scottish love their culture and they are always obstinate and unruly. Their protection on traditional culture is much appreciated.

(This article is translated from Lonely Planet. Editor: Liu Hong, Author: Tan Chuanyao, photographers: Dayu, Britain Tourism Administration, and so on. Do not reprint it without permission. For more information, please visit We-Chat lptraveller.)